One Whole Clove

Visions of Pipolinka

[A loaf of Pipolinka]

The townspeople, deprived of Pipolinka patented bread all winter, pined for their own super dense, nutty bites  with heightened effects only the golden goodness of honey could achieve about the surface area.  It wasn't until I ventured into the whimsical outreaches of Wakefield, Quebec post spring thaw, did I discover the puff and production of our packed, rich loaves we so hankered for.   This new, organic bakery was simple and to the point in their charming moniker:

The Old World/Vieux Monde loaf was the inspiration and while they are much too small to distribute regionally, they are now operational from home base.  Owners Philippe and Kalina were spirited by feedback from their creation of Pipolinka bread (a former staple at our health food store).  In an effort to deliver quality goods to an enthusiastic clientele, they created more of the same organic goodies and showcased their wares at storefront.   Among some of the more ambitious efforts and worthy mentionables, veggie tourtière packaged in cupcake frou, oval ciabattas, creamy cashew wraps, ginger beings and other organic chocolaty cakes, bars and bonbons. 

While Philippe operated the ear splitting, cacophonous bread slicer, I yelled for an additional order of loves bites and one black bean empanada.  The empanada would be my supper for that evening, a pairing of chocolate and chili, the stuffed pastry was at the expected level of heat but the healthy hippie hug of kale was slightly overpowering. 

[Black Bean Empanada with Chocolate and Chili]

Love bites were a date and dried fruit combination, blissfully rolled in desicated coconut.  This was the perfect pick-up up.  Something I can totally dig and get hung up on over and over again.

[Love Bites]

And of course there was the Old World/Vieux Monde bread, organic sourdough with spelt, rye, flax and sunflower seeds, a half order was served hot and freshly cut.

Coincidentally, the book store in town was going bust, selling books at $1 a piece and finally throwing boxes out the door for free.  The most prominent duplicates and obvious losers were Atkins and the like.  No one was taking a second glance because carbs are back in with a whole new emphasis on the enjoyment of life!

Darkest, densest pumpernickel generously primped in organic Morello cherry jam are assigned to my workday mornings, pale, buttery crumpets on a Saturday afternoon but Sunday, oh, my Sundays are now devoted to Pipolinka's Old World and the honey that visits there (hehe!)

La Vieille Alliance, the Aftermath

[La Vieille Alliance, after]

The sirens from the trucks cut through the dimday but no one would have presupposed their destination.  Families continued to stir their supper pots and cut their fresh baked bakery baguette with quiet innocence. In the usual Monday afternoon doldrums, a few citizens of town may have strolled along Principale and come to the realization, it was La Vieille Alliance that was in flames...again!

My phone started to ring at quarter to six at which point I had yet to be au courant with the ill-fated news.  In my after work languor, I collected my failing energy to answer the call. 

"La Vieille Alliance is in flames...again."

I felt my heart slump.  The news was implausible.  There was only so much adversity one could face in a lifetime, I thought to myself.  In the spring of 2005, the bakery encountered misfortune as one of several shops who fell victim to arson.  With resolution and patronage, the owners set up their storefront in an old heritage building known to locals as Danny's Bar-B-Q, during the late fall of 2005. 

And now this...

[La Vieille Alliance, side view]

I wrote a review of their second endeavor back in January 2006.  It wasn't until April 20, 2007, ten days before the ruin of flames and water damage, I received an e-mail from owners Frances and Bruno who had come across my piece.  In my detection of her accent alone, I, a former languages major and college drop-out decided Frances was Irish.  To my pleasure she corrected my delusion and provided me with a bit of background information.

"...I’m only half-Irish and really consider myself Scottish...La Vieille Alliance is the name of an agreement between France and Scotland that dates from the ‘year of our Lord 1295’ and we chose the name to represent our origins..."

On the night of April 30, I sat at my computer unable to work.  My head felt heavy from the days events. I resolved to write to our local paper and advance an excerpt to Frances and Bruno. 

 "The Auld Alliance is a story of reoccurring defeat as much as it holds onto a history of perseverance. Like the Scottish and French before them, La Vieille Alliance, the bakery, as it is so named, took one romantic notion merging two separate entities to withstand adversity.  In the cusp of a quaint-town,  their sweet determination, detectable in their Chantilly chouxs and lemon tartelettes left patrons enchanted. If there is some semblance to the small town of which I speak, I implore us all to do what we can in restoring faith in the hearts that have lost once again on this night."

I never took chances.  I was a person who let life pass me by for way too many years.  Now I am older and maybe wiser.  While there is a certain comfort in watching the world progress in routine silence, pursuing risks can be much more gratifying.  I am reassured of this more than ever when I hear back from Frances the day after the fire,

“…We will start again and you will have another chance to sample our wonderful cakes, bread, cheeses etc…We just need to get everything out, get it cleaned and find a new place. Hoping to meet you properly there.”

Petit poulet au prosciutto

Integrate the creativity of Jacques Faucher with random produce from Quebec's terroir and you have the appealing dishes of Pour 2.  The simplicity of Pour 2 (For 2) is bold just as the cover is unceremonious yet I felt compelled to flip through the pages of the slim volume and read on.  When I did, I was easily beguiled by recipes which just made sense.  It was like I was almost embarrassed I hadn't thought of the ingredient pairings before.

The cookbook instruction itself can be frustrating yet not entirely the negligence of the chef.  The editing team may have forgotten to add in a few oven temperatures or incorporate the odd ingredient but all can be forgiven when our common sense prevails because it is truly that simple.

The first recipe I attempted from Pour 2 was for a whole chicken wrapped in prosciutto.  As the oven temperature was not disclosed I deduced to preheat at 350 degrees, a safe assumption for poultry.  The recipe turned out perfectly in a little more than an hour with a juicy and succulent meat.  The prosciutto took on an almost naughty Poulet Frit Kentucky (KFC) like quality and the vegetables were garden of eatin' good.  This is my favourite roast chicken recipe to date.  Enjoy! 

Petit poulet au prosciutto

(Adapted from Pour 2 by Jacques Faucher)

1 carrot, peeled and cut in chunks
1 parsnip, peeled and cut in chunks
1 leek, cleaned and cut in chunks
4 small blue potatoes
1 head of garlic, peeled and separated
6 green olives
salt and pepper
1 tbsp. olive oil
1 chicken (2-3 lbs.)
zest of 1 lemon
1 branch rosemary
3 thin slices prosciutto

In a bowl, mix the carrot, parsnip, leek, garlic cloves, olives, salt and pepper.  Wrap the mixture in aluminum foil and place on a baking sheet.  Bake in a preheated 350 F degree oven for 60 minutes.

Clean chicken with cold water and dab dry with paper towels.  Pat whole chicken with olive oil and deposit the bird in a roasting pan.  Season with salt and pepper.  Add zest of lemon.  Cut rosemary branch in two and tuck under legs or wings.  Cover the top and sides of the chicken with prosciutto slices and place in the oven for about 60 minutes or just until chicken is golden and prosciutto is crisp.  Serve chicken with vegetables.  Serves two generously with enough leftovers for a quick lunch the next day.

Sugar High Friday #28: Sweet Seduction

[Formidérable's Maple Meringues]

Valentine's Day is second only to Christmas in my French Canadian family.  We are lovers not fighters, poets and musicians before politicians.  The gifting could be edible and much more appreciated in this respect.  For it is the sweet "thereafter" of bonbons, dark chocolate and jelly goodies which keep us comforted from the icy banshees and inevitably take us safely to the spring.

The transitional period between January's bite to March's bittersweet winds brings about the anticipation of the first few trickles of maple syrup.  Although Canadians can enjoy maple products throughout the year, it is the smell of winter's thaw paired with sugar bush taffy which garners the most points in the authenticity category.

With warmth from the fireside and the additional glow of mid February's brilliant cherry pink skies pre-dusk,  maple can add to an evening of sweet seduction.  Cue in the befitting Sugar High Friday #28: Sweet Seduction, hosted by Jasmine of Cardamom Addict

I have mentioned and raved about Formidérable's preparations and confections in posts of blogging past.  Their website offers an ambrosial array of maple flavoured provisions to the general public.  The highly regarded L'Orée du Bois restaurant further emphasis the company's wares in the cookbook L'Orée du Bois and Formidérable:

A very delicious dessert platter can be made up with Formidérable maple sweets.  These delicacies, accompanied by a glass of port or Pineau des Charentes, bring a good meal or a pleasnt evening to a satisfying close [I would have to say, we've only just begun]  Celebrate an important event with a choice assortment of these maple gourmet delights:
Maple-filled chocolates, maple-sugar leaves, maple pecans, maple marzipan stuffed pecans [and of course] maple meringues.

Maple meringues are the most versatile option for an evening of sensuality.  The fatal attraction is apparent in this dessert's light-as-air and transportable properties.  Observe each confection as it melts languidly upon your lover's tatstebuds, the subtle hint of maple only adding another layer of sprightliness.

Meringues are traditionally made with egg white, cream of tartar and sugar.  It is the amount of sugar added to the egg white recipe that dictates how stiff the meringue will become.  A soft meringue is the proverbial cherry atop a lemon pie, whereas Pavlova offers a harder crust.

This recipe from Joy of Baking is instruction for a typical meringue cookie.  Add and incorporate 1/2 tsp. of maple syrup before piping or spooning the mixture onto the prepared baking sheet.

Meringue Cookies

(Adapted from Joy of Baking)

3 large egg whites (3 ounces or 90 grams)
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
3/4 cup (150 grams) superfine or caster sugar (if you don't have superfine sugar simply take granulated white sugar and process it for about 30 seconds in a food processor)

Preheat oven to 200 degrees F (105 degrees C) and place the rack in the center of your oven. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. You can form the cookies with a pastry bag fitted with a 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) plain tip, or just use two spoons.

In the bowl of your electric mixer, with the whisk attachment, beat the egg whites on low-medium speed until foamy. Add the cream of tartar and continue to beat the whites until they hold soft peaks. Add the sugar, a little at a time, and continue to beat until the meringue holds very stiff peaks.

Note: The meringue is done when it holds stiff peaks and when you rub a little between your thumb and index finger it does not feel gritty. If it feels gritty the sugar has not fully dissolved so keep beating until it feels smooth between your fingers.

Before placing the cookies on the cookie sheet, place a little of the meringue on the underside of each corner of the parchment paper. This will prevent the paper from sliding. Transfer the meringue to a pastry bag fitted with a 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) tip. Pipe 2 1/2 inch (6 cm) rounds of meringue in rows on the prepared baking sheet. Alternatively, spoon mounds of meringue, using two spoons, onto the prepared sheets.

Bake the meringues for approximately 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 hours, rotating the baking sheet from front to back (about half way through) to ensure even baking. The meringues are done when they are pale in color and fairly crisp. Turn off the oven, open the door a crack, and leave the meringues in the oven to finish drying overnight.

Makes about 10 - 2 1/2 inch (6 cm) meringues

Formidérable's meringues as described on their website:

Crisp meringues delicately sweetened with pure maple syrup [none of that extract nonesense] and [here's my favourite part...] Bewitchingly delicious as each crisp bite melts in your mouth.  30g [packages] or more depending on the confectioner's whim.

Tarte Aux Oeufs

If one could fathom the oxymoronic ideology of breadless bread pudding served hot in baked crust then one would be familiar with the taste of tarte aux oeufs.

On it's naked little own, egg tart is rather, well, lonely.  It is best paired with a drizzle of maple syrup, a sprinkle of maple sugar or dressed in any sort of maple product available.  Although a good little jar of fruit preserves would also compliment a slice of this pie just fine. 

Tarte aux Oeufs (Egg Tart)

(Adapted from Au Goût du Québec)

2 cups milk
3 organic eggs
1/2 cup pure cane sugar
1/2 tsp. fresh grated nutmeg
1 pinch salt
1 9-inch spelt piecrust or 1 recipe for your favourite piecrust

Prepare pie crust in a 9-inch pie plate.  Crimp edges and pierce bottom and sides of unbaked crust with the tines of a fork.  Cover the shell with aluminum foil and fill the bottom with uncooked rice or dried beans (pie weights, ideally).  Bake in a preheated 425 degree F oven for 6 minutes.  Remove aluminum and rice or beans and cook naked shell for an additional 4 minutes or until crust is firm.  Put the crust on a baking rack and let cool.

In a pot, bring milk just to the point of boiling.  In a mixing bowl, blend together eggs and cane sugar.  Add hot milk to egg mixture.  Add nutmeg and salt.  Mix vigorously.

Pour the preparation into the cooled pie crust.  Bake in a 400 degree F oven for 15 minutes.  Turn down the temperature to 350 degrees F and bake an additional 30 minutes or until a knife inserted in to the centre of the pie comes out clean.  Let cool completely.  Serves 8.