One Whole Clove

Pouding au Chomeur

[Pudding of the Unemployed]

 

Between 1929 and 1939, the era known as the Great Depression, the average Quebec household income dropped by 44%.  Unemployment left a good deal of the population destitute, forlorn and above all hungry.

It became a burden to prepare a decent supper and dessert was but a fleeting reverie.  The extravagant confections of former decades were understandably harder to come by.  Most families were now faced with the challenge of finding inventive ways to pull together a few bits and scraps to satiate an appetite and on occasion the sweet tooth.  Poor man's pudding, the pudding of the unemployed or, in French, pouding au chomeur was one of these desserts.  The simple cake originates back to the settlers of Acadia in Eastern Canada and of New France (Quebec).  The moist sponge becomes tagged as grand-pere (grandfather) when it is paired with the delicious glaze of maple syrup.

Pouding au Chomeur

(Adapted from Recipezaar)

3/4 cup brown sugar

1 cup flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

3/4 cup milk

1 teaspoon cinnamon

2 cups boiling water (or ¾ cup boiling water)

3/4 cup brown sugar (or 2 cups maple syrup)

1 pinch nutmeg (optional)

Mix the first six ingredients together in a deep baking dish (the deeper the better to prevent spills).

This is the"batter".

Combine the boiling water,3/4 cup brown sugar and nutmeg.

Pour over the top of the"batter".

Bake 30 minutes at 350.

**NOTE:To make Grand-pere instead, replace the 2 cups boiling water and 3/4 cup brown sugar with 3/4 cup boiling water and 2 cups maple syrup- omit the nutmeg.

Either version is equally delicious.

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Chausson aux Cerises

For the handful of times I have been in a Macdonald's restaurant, I have found each pained encounter to be noisy, phosphorescent and gastronomically unmemorable.  I do, however, recognize the fried chausson aux cerises days of my youth with both enthusiasm and trepidation, when pies were deep fried and served hot in their cardboard container.  I do not recollect the greasy rectangle of cooked dough as much as the cautionary caption which read like a red alert across the package or the fear further emphasized by my mother's anxious tone, "The filling may burn you severely so be careful."  To this day she continues to have a way with words.  With nervous activity I slowly lifted the sweet pastry to my mouth and nibbled one corner until the point of no return when I would reach a bit of scorching filling.   In those days there were no air vents so heat was trapped beneath the fatty crust.  The confection was satisfyingly sweet, greasing each finger appropriately.

I could not compare the experience to bakery chausson aux pommes or the home baked goods my mother would produce, for these treats were cooled to room temperature before being devoured.  Macdonald's or Mecdo as it is referred to here in Quebec does not offer hot cherry pie any longer however, baked chausson aux pommes continues to be one of a few menu desserts.

Chaussons aux Cerises

2 cups fresh pitted cherries
1/2 cup water
1/2 cup sugar
2 tablespoons cornstarch
18 ounces frozen puff pastry -- thawed
1 cup confectioners' sugar
2 tablespoons water

In a saucepan, cook cherries in water for 10 minutes. Mix together the sugar and cornstarch; add to cherries. Cook cherry mixture until thickened. Cool slightly.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Cut each sheet of puff pastry into four
squares. Place equal amounts of cherry pie filling in the center of each
square. Brush the edges with water and fold in half diagonally. Seal and
crimp the edges with a fork. Bake on ungreased baking sheets for 15 to 18
minutes or until puffed and golden. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine the
confectioners' sugar and water; mix well. Drizzle over the warm turnovers and serve.  8 servings.

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Maple Pecan Tarts

[Maple Pecan Tart]

Spring is most notable here in Quebec and throughout Canada for two exploits, maple syrup and the Stanley cup playoffs.

With autumn we welcome the return of the good old hockey game and continue to produce both our sweet and savories with our favourite amber liquid.

Maple Pecan Tart

(adapted fromm Bon Appétit)

1 cup pure maple syrup
3/4 cup (packed) golden brown sugar
3 large eggs
1/4 cup sugar
3 tablespoons butter, melted
1 tablespoon all purpose flour
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 9-inch frozen deep-dish pie crust
1 1/2 cups coarsely chopped pecans

Preheat oven to 350°F. Whisk first 7 ingredients in medium bowl to blend. Place unbaked crust on baking sheet. Spread nuts over crust. Pour filling over. Bake until filling is set and slightly puffed, about 1 hour. Transfer pie to rack and cool completely.

Makes 8 servings


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Things to Eat Before You Die

One may think "You Are What You Eat" and "Things to Eat Before You Die" memes could be quite similar by comparison.  Both represent the most celebrated dishes as experienced by the author.  However, I composed the former, in retrospect, depicting my make-up as described by my routine gormandizing habit.

The latter of the two, "Things to Eat Before You Die," is most feasible as a statement, those solitary meals, of unrivaled contest, which would not necessarily be repeated for reason of budget and/or gluttony. 

As a Québecoise, I admit to being swayed by an allegiance to my province and heritage likewise promoting the adoption and evolution of gastronomy in the new world, however, my list is not so biased as to excuse international influence.  It can only be as follows and of no particular order of caste, taste or genre :

-Poutine

For nothing  more than the ultimate greasy junk food high, brown gravy, cheese curds atop crisp French fries.

-Ragoût de pattes de cochon

Stick to your ribs Quebecois fare

-Octopus.  Simply irresistible if well prepared but absolutely dreadful if overcooked.  Funnily enough, the best octopus I have eaten thus far was in a fine establishment in Cuba.

-A fresh cheese curd

Not just a garnish for poutine.

-Smoked fish particularly scotch smoked salmon and Quebec trout.  Delicate in texture, creamy and robust in taste.

-Quebec or Vermont Maple Syrup

Slather French toast, pancakes, oatmeal or even cereal with this sweet nectar.  One word of caution, this is a highly addictive liquid.

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Chocolate-Toffee Brownie Cake

Could I possibly be captivating your undivided attention with literal overload?  Chocolate, toffee and a brownie-like texture contributing complexity, density and all around sinfulness into one, masterpiece-of-cake.  It's magnitude outweighs my ability to continue with further introduction.  I stumbled upon the epic cake in Bon Appétit a few weeks ago.

Chocolate-Toffee Brownie Cake

For cake

3 1/2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder

3/4 cup all purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

2 large eggs

2/3 cup sugar

1/4 cup hot water

1 3/4 cups pecans, coarsely ground (about 6 ounces)

1/2 cup English toffee bits (such as Heath's Bits)

1/2 cup semisweet chocolate chips

For glaze

4 ounces bittersweet (not unsweetened) or semisweet chocolate, chopped

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 tablespoon honey

1/4 cup chopped pecans

1/2 cup English toffee bits

Make cake:

Position rack in center of oven and preheat oven to 350°F. Butter 9-inch-diameter cake pan with 2-inch-high sides. Sprinkle pan with 1/2 tablespoon cocoa powder; tilt pan to coat bottom and sides. Shake out excess.

Mix flour, baking powder and salt in small bowl. Stir butter and remaining 3 tablespoons cocoa in heavy small saucepan over medium-low heat until butter melts and mixture is smooth. Remove from heat.

Using electric mixer, beat eggs and sugar in large bowl until thick and fluffy. Mix in hot water and cocoa mixture. Mix in flour mixture. Stir in pecans, toffee bits and chocolate chips.

Transfer batter to prepared pan; smooth top. Bake cake until top is firm and tester inserted into center comes out with moist crumbs still attached, about 25 minutes. Cool in pan on rack 15 minutes. Run knife around pan sides to loosen cake. Turn cake out onto platter. Cool.

Make glaze:

Stir chocolate, butter and honey in small saucepan over medium-low heat until mixture is smooth. Cool until mixture thickens slightly but is still pourable, about 10 minutes.

Pour glaze over top of cake, allowing some to run down sides. Spread glaze over top and sides of cake. Sprinkle top of cake with pecans and toffee bits. Chill until glaze is set, about 1 hour. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Keep chilled. Let stand at room temperature 15 minutes before serving.)

Serves 8

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